Una National Park by Car

Northwestern Bosnia does not appear on most Balkan road trip itineraries, and that is both its problem and its appeal. Una National Park sits in a corner of the country that takes genuine effort to reach – four hours from Sarajevo, deep in a region that spent the last thirty years being ignored by travel writers focused on Mostar and Dubrovnik. What you find when you get there is a river system of startling beauty: the Una and its tributary the Unac, running through travertine cascades, dense forest, and a handful of villages where tourism exists but has not yet learned to be annoying about it.

We drove here from Sarajevo on a Friday afternoon and spent the weekend wading through turquoise water, eating grilled trout on a riverbank, and watching rafters disappear downstream. The national park was established in 2008, and it still has the feel of a place that is figuring out how to be a destination. Infrastructure is minimal, signage is improving, and the waterfalls do not care whether anyone is watching.

Getting There

Una National Park is based around the city of Bihac in the far northwest of Bosnia. Getting here requires commitment – there is no quick way from anywhere.

Starting Point	Distance	Drive Time	Route
Sarajevo	~300 km	4-4.5 hours	M5 via Jajce and Kljuc, then M14 to Bihac
Zagreb, Croatia	~300 km	3.5 hours	A1 motorway to Karlovac, then border at Maljevac
Plitvice Lakes, Croatia	~85 km	1.5 hours	Cross at Izacic border, then to Bihac
Split, Croatia	~350 km	5 hours	A1 north to Zagreb direction, then east
Banja Luka	~140 km	2.5 hours	M5 via Kljuc

The most practical approach for a Balkan road trip is from Sarajevo via Jajce (itself worth a stop for the waterfall in the town center) and Kljuc. The road is two-lane, winding through the Vrbas valley, and in decent condition. It is not fast. The M5 through central Bosnia never is.

From Croatia, the proximity to Plitvice Lakes makes a compelling combination. You can visit Plitvice (Croatia’s most famous national park, heavily touristed) and then cross the border to Una National Park (Bosnia’s answer, barely touristed) within 90 minutes. The contrast is instructive.

Tip: The Izacic/Licko Petrovo Selo border crossing between Croatia and Bosnia near Bihac is small and rarely has significant waits – 5-15 minutes typical. It is a more pleasant crossing than the main routes further south.

The Park: What to See

Una National Park covers 198 square kilometers along the upper Una River from Martin Brod in the south to the Croatian border in the north. The river itself is the attraction – crystal-clear water running over travertine formations that create cascades, pools, and small waterfalls at every bend.

Strbacki Buk

The headline waterfall. Strbacki Buk is a 24-meter-high, 40-meter-wide travertine cascade that drops into a pool of water so green it looks synthetic. It is the largest waterfall in Bosnia and one of the most impressive in the Balkans.

Access is from a signed turnoff about 15 km northwest of Bihac. A paved road leads to a parking area (BAM 5 / ~EUR 2.50), and from there it is a 10-minute walk down a maintained path to the viewing platforms. A boardwalk runs along the base of the falls.

Strbacki Buk Details
Height	24 meters
Width	~40 meters
Entry fee	BAM 5 (~EUR 2.50)
Parking	BAM 5 (~EUR 2.50)
Swimming	Possible in the downstream pools (cold water)
Best time	Spring (high water flow) or early summer
Time needed	1-2 hours

The waterfall is most dramatic in spring when snowmelt pushes the water volume to its peak. By late summer, the flow diminishes but the pools below become warm enough for swimming – relatively speaking.

Martin Brod

At the southern end of the park, the village of Martin Brod sits at the confluence of the Una and Unac rivers. This is a genuinely remote place – a handful of stone houses, a 14th-century monastery, and a series of small waterfalls where the Unac drops into the Una through a sequence of travertine terraces.

The waterfalls at Martin Brod are smaller than Strbacki Buk but arguably more beautiful because you can walk among them. A wooden boardwalk winds through the travertine terraces, and in summer you can wade into the shallow pools between the cascades. The water temperature hovers around 15 degrees Celsius even in August, which is refreshing if you are diplomatic and freezing if you are honest.

There is a small parking area in the village (free) and a visitor center that may or may not be staffed depending on the season and the mood of the staff.

Japodske Otoke (Japod Islands)

Between Martin Brod and Bihac, the Una River passes through a section of small wooded islands known as the Japodske Otoke, named after the ancient Japod people who inhabited this region. The islands are accessible by kayak or raft (part of the rafting trips that depart from Martin Brod) and are surrounded by travertine pools ideal for swimming.

This section of the river is also where you will see the Una at its most characteristic – wide, shallow, impossibly clear, flowing over white travertine in a way that creates a thousand small waterfalls across the river’s width.

Rafting the Una

Rafting is the park’s other major draw, and it is genuinely good. The Una is a Class II-III river, which means it is exciting enough to be fun but calm enough that you will not die. Several rafting operators run trips departing from Martin Brod or from Loskun camp within the park.

Rafting Option	Distance	Duration	Approximate Cost
Martin Brod to Loskun	10 km	3-4 hours	BAM 70-100 (~EUR 35-50) per person
Loskun to Strbacki Buk	7 km	2-3 hours	BAM 60-80 (~EUR 30-40) per person
Full run (Martin Brod to Strbacki Buk)	17 km	5-6 hours	BAM 120-150 (~EUR 60-75) per person

Most trips include equipment (raft, paddle, life jacket, helmet) and lunch on the riverbank. Book through operators in Bihac – ask at your accommodation for recommendations or search for “Una Rafting” operators. In July and August, book at least a day in advance. Outside peak season, same-day bookings are usually possible.

The rafting is seasonal: May through September, with the best conditions in June and July.

Tip: If rafting feels like too much commitment, rent a kayak or canoe in Bihac (BAM 30-50 / EUR 15-25 for a half day) and paddle the calmer sections of the Una upstream from town. The water is shallow and clear enough to see every stone on the bottom.

Where to Stay

Bihac is the logical base, with the widest choice of accommodation and restaurants. The town itself is pleasant without being a destination – a riverside promenade, some Ottoman remnants, and a laid-back atmosphere.

Accommodation Type	Location	Price Range (per night)
Hotels	Bihac center	BAM 80-150 (~EUR 40-75)
Guesthouses	Bihac or park villages	BAM 40-80 (~EUR 20-40)
Camping	Within the park (Loskun area)	BAM 15-30 (~EUR 8-15)
Eco-village	Martin Brod area	BAM 60-100 (~EUR 30-50)

Martin Brod has a couple of guesthouses and a small eco-camp if you want to stay inside the park. The trade-off is limited restaurant options (one or two places, seasonal) and no fuel stations. Fill up in Bihac.

Fuel and Supplies

This is the practical section that matters: northwestern Bosnia is remote, and the infrastructure reflects it.

• Fuel: Fill your tank in Bihac. There are no fuel stations inside the national park, and the next reliable station south of Martin Brod is in Drvar (50 km away). Bihac has multiple stations (Energopetrol, Hifa) on the main road through town.
• Cash: ATMs are in Bihac. Smaller establishments in the park area may not accept cards. Withdraw BAM before heading into the park.
• Groceries: Stock up in Bihac if you are camping or staying in a guesthouse without a restaurant.
• Mobile signal: Patchy within the park, especially around Martin Brod. Download offline maps before you go.

Driving Conditions

The road from Bihac to Strbacki Buk is paved and in reasonable condition – a standard car handles it easily. The road from Bihac south to Martin Brod (about 40 km) is narrower and winds through the Una valley. It is paved but single-lane in sections with occasional oncoming traffic. Drive cautiously and enjoy the scenery – the road follows the river closely, and the views are constant.

Within the park, some access roads to specific viewpoints and trailheads are unpaved. Most are manageable in a standard car in dry conditions, but after rain they can become muddy. An SUV is helpful if you plan extensive exploration off the main routes.

Combining Una with Other Destinations

Una National Park works well as part of a longer road trip through Bosnia or as a cross-border addition to a Croatian itinerary:

• From Plitvice Lakes, Croatia: 85 km, 1.5 hours. Visit Plitvice one day, Una the next. The combination of Croatia’s most famous park with Bosnia’s most underrated one makes for a compelling contrast.
• Loop from Sarajevo: Sarajevo to Jajce (1.5 hours) – stop at Jajce waterfall – continue to Bihac (2.5 hours). Spend 1-2 days at Una, then return via Banja Luka and the M5 (varies the scenery).
• Toward Croatia: From Bihac, the Croatian border is 30 minutes away. Cross at Izacic and you are in the Plitvice area, from which you can head to the Adriatic coast or north toward Zagreb.
• Toward Slovenia: From Bihac, you can reach Ljubljana in about 4 hours via Zagreb.

The M17 Sarajevo to Mostar drive is Bosnia’s most famous road – Una National Park is what you drive when you want Bosnia without the other tourists. Both deserve your time.

For road rules, speed limits, and insurance requirements, see our Bosnia driving guide and the general driving guide.